Jamie Limond

A Clockwise Circumnavigation of the UK and Ireland in Gaudeo (Bowman 40)

08:00 Saturday 1st April 2023

Levington to Ramsgate

SHOWERS

F2-5 NW BACKING W

SLIGHT – MODERATE

997 mBar RISING STEADILY

Our departure from Levington was all too familiar, cold and damp, it was April the 1st, how foolish!… Due to the weak neap tides we had moved Gaudeo from her home berth at Woodbridge the previous weekend. Levington was the obvious choice for us, it’s perfectly located. Being near to our home in the Orwell, a safe haven, close to the sea and an all-tides marina (the Harbourside coffee shop’s pretty friendly too). I stayed aboard the night before our departure to get things straight. Mary (my wife) had planned to sail the first leg but would have to return to teach her class at the end of the Easter holidays. However, not unusually she’d picked up an end of term bug and had told me to go ahead, she’d catch us up somewhere along the way. My two friends (my first ‘would be’ customers but due to a hold up with the boat’s MCA coding they remained simply friends) and I set off an hour or so after sunrise for our first stop, Ramsgate (approx. 50nm – 9 hours).

Mark wisely chose to invest in a pair of goggles for the trip, ensuring the spray stays out of his eyes and off his glasses. Although I had hoped he would opt for a stylish pair of steampunk or vintage motorcycle goggles, his practical, utilitarian choice was commendable.

Ramsgate is a pretty easy first port from the Orwell. The Thames sand banks tend to move around, but the chart updates are well handled and the channels are marked clearly. We’ve done this voyage many times without a hitch. I really can’t wait to have a delicious meal at ‘La Magnolia’, probably the best Italian restaurant in Ramsgate. It’s perched on the cliff and offers a stunning view of the marina. The place is run by an Italian family who do this thing of sucking their teeth when you show up without a reservation. But don’t worry, they always find a way to squeeze us in and they’re super friendly once you break the ice.

That night we had a lovely meal in the Italian restaurant, the first of many together and we retired early after a long day.

The weather forecast predicted strong winds for the following day, which led us to forgo our onward sail and instead explore Ramsgate. Undoubtedly, the most captivating aspect of the town was the vicinity surrounding the marina. Ramsgate had endured significant damage during the intense bombings of the Second World War, and we discovered that the neighbourhood adjacent to the marina offered the most appealing attractions within the town.

Ramsgate’s sea defences and cliffs are adorned with bus shelters that appear to be rather inaccessible by bus. They bring to mind Darren Almond’s artwork Terminus (1999)¹, with the flowers left by loved ones and their plaques, provide an intriguing resemblance to a reference to morality. The shelters positioned at the top of the cliffs offer a space for contemplation and solace. However, I find myself puzzled by the purpose of the ones located at the foot of the cliff. They are alcoves without seating, leaving one with no choice but to stand inside them. Perhaps they were once equipped with shutters, serving as storage for deck chairs or functioning as changing rooms. Is it possible that they used to have seats? In 2017, some local art students beautifully enhanced these shelters with a floral mural². Since then, Kent’s urban graffitists have added their artistic contributions. The shelters on top of the cliff in the Winterstoke Gardens have received recent renovations and care, but these ones remain a mystery. That is until I stumbled upon a reference to the Winterstoke Undercliff works dating back to 1936.

“DESCRIPTION: chalk cliff face, with inbuilt slatted wooden seats. The central walkway follows a lengthy, dogleg pattern, with Pulhamite forming a rockery setting with textured rockwork surfaces imitating geological strata and irregular planting troughs to both sides. Alcoves for fixed wooden benches are placed at intervals along the route and some are approached by steps.”

Kent County Council (2020) Exploring Kent’s Past. Available at: https://webapps.kent.gov.uk/KCC.ExploringKentsPast.Web.Sites.Public/SingleResult.aspx?uid=MKE35266 [Accessed: 26th Oct 2023]³

Near the harbour and marina, there lies a captivating display of architecture. My attention was instantly captured by a splendid set of stone stairs, gracefully connecting the docks to the town. These stairs, known as Jacob’s Ladder⁴, were erected as a permanent replacement for a previous wooden structure designed by Jacob Stead in 1754. The current stairs were constructed in 1826 by the skilled hands of John Shaw. They reminded me of the artistic genius of M.C. Escher. Towering at a height of approximately 14 metres, this architectural marvel boasts a total of 90 steps. It is just unfortunate that a car park has been situated at the foot of this remarkable landmark.

To the right of Jacobs ladder lies The Ramsgate Home for Smack Boys, and further along, there are the archways, a pseudo viaduct that accommodates small businesses. Initially, these consisted of workshops offering boat repair services and stores. Today, they house antique shops, cafés, and bistros. The road above was originally constructed by Napoleonic prisoners of war around 1881. This formed part of a significant harbor development completed during the reign of Queen Victoria. Ramsgate captured the attention of King George IV (1820), who used it as a launchpad for his voyage to Hanover with the Royal Squadron. As a result, he bestowed upon it the ‘Royal’ accolade, making it the only Royal Harbour to this day. After George, William IV, also known as ‘Silly Willy’, a naval officer, briefly held the throne until 1837 when he was succeeded by Queen Victoria, the granddaughter of ‘Mad’ King George III.

The Ramsgate Smack Boy’s Home holds a certain level of intrigue. Following the Napoleonic Wars, Ramsgate’s focus shifted towards fishing. Within a short period after the turn of the 20th century, a total of 168 fishing smacks set sail from Ramsgate. The Customs House implemented indentures, an apprenticeship program that bound young boys to work on the boats for a fixed span of 5 years. Unfortunately, the pay was meagre, with some receiving as little as 1d per day. Once off the boats, these children, some as young as 12 years old, were left to fend for themselves, seeking food and shelter. Tragically, many found themselves homeless or eventually ending up in prison. It was due to the efforts of Canon Eustace Brenan who exerted pressure on the Board of Trading, a division operating under the Customs House, to establish a home for these boys during their shore leave. This home was ultimately constructed in the year 1881. While indenture practices were not uncommon throughout the United Kingdom, Ramsgate stood as the sole fishing port that provided a designated residence for the Smack boys.

Later, as times changed, so did the home and it became a shelter for sailors rescued at sea, then during the First World War it used as a hub to clothe, shelter and provide medical care to those in need.⁵

From the boys home it is just a short walk to the marina’s facilities. The wind had been easing all day, and we’d be heading southward in the morning, either to Dover or beyond, so having an early start we took to our berths.

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04:30 Monday 3rd April 2023

Ramsgate to Brighton

FAIR

F3-5 NE VEERING E

SLIGHT – MODERATE

1024 mBar STEADY

Our next destination was Brighton, a passage that posed a challenge for our inexperienced crew. Unfortunately, Mary couldn’t join us yet, so we were still one person short. However, we were determined to make up for the lost time caused by the weather delay. As a result, we had to skip Dover. Although the new marina there seemed enticing, however visitor berthing was restricted to the old all tides harbour, due to a power supply issue, and this was less appealing. But we were undeterred and ready to face the adventure head-on.

It can be challenging to depart in the dark, especially when it comes to hoisting the sails and ensuring everything is set properly. The limited visibility can make it a sensory and seamanship task, testing your skills and precision. Sometimes it seemed like one’s experience on Gaudeo was a mix of trial and error, but eventually, we managed to get the main sail up, on the third attempt. However, due to the darkness and the difficulties encountered, our initial plan was reconsidered. Although we had planned to run parallel with the Ramsgate channel and then cut into the Gull Channel, the crew questioned this approach, prompting me to consult Navionics for water depth information. Our location was further west I’d than anticipated, that and the favourable wind and the fact that Gaudeo was sailing well encouraged me to take a more direct route through the Ramsgate channel. Trusting that there would be enough water, around 4-5 meters according to the charts, and so a decision made in good faith.

But then I felt it. No one else did, a tiny lift at the bottom of the wave, barely noticeable. I took control of the helm and for a split second, I considered changing course. But it was already too late…. this time, there was no mistaking it. We were at the bottom of the swell and we were skidding over sand. I made a quick 90-degree turn to starboard, away from the supposed safe zone and towards what I hoped was deeper water. Can you believe it? According to the plotter, it was all supposed to be deep! Deep enough to avoid this potential disaster! Once again, the next wave hit us and there was a slight touch, not too heavy but definitely something. And then silence… We held our breath, maintaining our depth as we sailed into Gull channel. I scolded myself for hastily changing the plan, vowing never again to underestimate the warning of “Variable depths,” even if it claims to be 5 meters at LAT. Little did I know that this warning often referred to areas where dredgers dumped spoil! Thankfully, Gaudeo had a sturdy Scheel keel, which she happily sat on when in the cradle, so I was confident that sliding over the sands didn’t cause any long-term damage, except for scraping off the freshly applied antifouling. However, being the type of person who tends to catastrophize everything beyond my control (something I’m actively trying to work on), I couldn’t help but anxiously check the keel bolts, inspect every locker for leaks, and listen intently for the bilge alarm. Thankfully, no issues arose, and I was able to finally relax after a couple of cups of tea, a cup of coffee, and some scrumptious ginger cake…

As we sailed on, the winds kept pushing our boat forward. The soothing sound of waves against the hull made it feel like the sea was singing to us.

Navigating through the Gull Channel was like dancing between the sea and the sky. The cliffs and green waters on either side created a breath-taking view of nature’s beauty. I couldn’t help but be amazed by the wonders around us.

The to-and-fro of the sails capturing of the wind, reminding me how life can be unpredictable, just like the tides. But with determination and resilience, we can overcome virtually any challenge.

The rest of the journey was seamless. The open water, the feeling of freedom, and the bond among the crew made it a truly unforgettable experience.

Brighton & Hove was a sight for sore eyes. Mary was meeting us there and she was on the train from London. We were now in ‘A Race Around the World’ style contest, who’d get there first? Half hoping Mary would be on the pontoon to catch our ropes, half hoping to win the dash, to me it was a win-win game. But instead of Mary catching our ropes it was a young man, the owner of a wooden folk boat who’d been stuck in the marina since his engine had failed back in October… ominous.

Mary joined the boat right after I checked in at the Brighton Marina office. Her presence truly elevated our team dynamics, and I was very happy to have her on board.

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1. https://www.holzwarth-publications.de/pages_books/almond_terminus.html ↩︎
2. 1. https://theisleofthanetnews.com/2017/06/24/a-splash-of-colour-is-appearing-on-shelters-at-ramsgates-sea-wall ↩︎
3. https://webapps.kent.gov.uk/KCC.ExploringKentsPast.Web.Sites.Public/SingleResult.aspx?uid=MKE35266 ↩︎
4. 3. https://www.ramsgatetrail.co.uk/royal-harbour-walk-5 (Jacobs Ladder) ↩︎
5. https://ramsgateroyalharbour.co.uk/historic-ramsgate/ 
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